The purist's guide to phở in Hanoi

(connla.substack.com)

82 points | by vinhnx 2 days ago

12 comments

  • alex_c 2 hours ago
    >How, the novice may ask, does one discover which version is the correct one for oneself?

    >There is nothing else to it – you must eat a few hundred bowls of phở and find out. If this requires moving to Hanoi, so be it.

    Not the worst life plan, to be honest!

    A little bit sad that my own "death bed pho" - chicken pho from that one stall near the market in old quarter - gets just a passing mention as the only acceptable variation to traditional beef pho.

    This also brings back memories of our "mystery pho man" - who had three tiny stools and one large pot outside his house every morning, looked like a character straight out of an 80's movie, and was usually sold out by 8am.

    Vietnamese food has got significantly better in Toronto in the past 5-10 years - but still haven't found anything that comes even close to Hanoi chicken pho.

    • __mharrison__ 1 hour ago
      My wife, who doesn't eat beef, once asked for chicken pho, and got an extreme talking to. She was sad because she had good chicken pho in the past.
  • anonymouscaller 1 hour ago
    For us Americans who can’t make it out to Vietnam, I’ve found the best Pho in the US is in Orange County, CA and Boston’s Dorchester neighborhood!
    • canjobear 3 minutes ago
      What are your OC recs?
    • Aboutplants 8 minutes ago
      Philadelphia also has some incredible Pho shops, most in South Philly.
    • datlife 38 minutes ago
      You are missing out on San Jose. It has the largest population Vietnamese diaspora.
      • neilfrndes 12 minutes ago
        Could you please share a list of your favorites in San Jose/Bay Area?

        In San Francisco I love having pho in Chinatown. Golden Star Vietnamese Restaurant, Sai's Vietnamese, and Golden Flower were the ones I liked the most.

    • tonymet 30 minutes ago
      For those that do visit Vietnam admit that it’s better in the USA, too.
  • vogon_laureate 1 hour ago
    I've yet to visit Vietnam, but a phở my daughter and I had in Reykjavík was properly life-changing. I get the obsession.
    • sailorganymede 1 hour ago
      I believe I had the same one? I remember travelling Europe and going to the same place like 3 times while I was in Iceland!
    • mi_lk 1 hour ago
      restaurant name if you want to share?
  • dhosek 51 minutes ago
    Back when I lived in Orange County (and didn’t know how to pronounce phở), I used to joke about creating a restaurant that served phở made with Italian noodles and calling it Faux Phở.
    • dessimus 13 minutes ago
      Could go Greek-Vietnamese fusion with lamb and call it: "φ Faux Phở"
  • FlyingSnake 1 hour ago
    I've traveled to Hanoi and absolutely loved the phở there. One perk of living in Berlin is the exceptional Phở we get here. Thanks to the large Vietnamese community we have great phở, Bahn mí (esp at the Dong Xuan center). The phở we get here is top tier too, as confirmed by my Vietnamese friends.
  • jrimbault 3 hours ago
    Cheekily, might not the "purist" want a "pot-au-feu" ? (i have a sincere dislike of purity talk, especially in cookery)

    The article mentions it, but doesn't disprove it.

    • pazimzadeh 3 hours ago
      yeah purity seems overrated for almost anything except making drugs
      • doubletwoyou 1 hour ago
        And semiconductors and air quality perhaps
  • ValentineC 2 hours ago
    Hanoi was where I had one of the best chicken pho ever — their menu allows one to select the parts of the chicken they wanted. I've never had the back meat of chicken in a pho before, and it was phenomenal.

    And I found out about it from a random cafe barista. Sometimes it pays off just to ask someone where they'd eat nearby.

  • l5870uoo9y 44 minutes ago
    Pho is delicious, but Thai boat noodles soup (guay tiew ruea) is godly; dark, robust, and full of diverse flavors and nuances.
  • pazimzadeh 3 hours ago
    I was just in Hanoi. I stool in line for pho at "michelin rated" shops and had it in tiny stalls manned by a grandma or old couple. always go for the grandma..the michelin ones seem more dilute and cost more. For example, Pho 10 Ly Quoc Su vs. the stall right next to it.
    • MisterTea 2 hours ago
      I have a friend who loves Vietnam and was just visiting. His advice is ALWAYS go out of the tourist areas. To paraphrase his words "The more the locals look at you funny, the more authentic it's going to be." And by funny, not in a bad way but more of "uh, you lost there buddy?"
    • throwup238 2 hours ago
      If you can, always ask a local where to go. Most locals don’t want to wait in line unless it’s a special occasion and they know the best underrated and mom and pop restaurants. The ones with lines are usually tourist or internet hype traps and their food gets enshittified quickly.

      I learned this the hard way during Marti Gras.

      • pazimzadeh 1 hour ago
        Yeah. Some locals assume you’ll only like the touristy stuff though
  • CarVac 1 hour ago
    I've never been to Vietnam but there's a Hanoi-style pho place by me and it is head and shoulders better than any other pho I've ever had in the US.

    Apparently most pho in the US is southern Vietnamese style?

    • windward 56 minutes ago
      Because most Vietnamese people in the US are southern Vietnamese. People who fled during what we'd call the Vietnam War*, and their descendants.

      *Not the most recent war in Vietnam

  • __patchbit__ 1 hour ago
    Is consomme the reference precursor implementation?
  • e40 2 days ago
    Disappointing that there was not a single picture in the post. And, wow, it’s long!
    • theoriginaldave 3 hours ago
      He did speak a little distainfully of taking pictures of your pho or having your phone handy while eating.

      I think the lack of pictures emphasizes focusing in the moment and enjoying the experience and then remembering it fondly later.

      • kakacik 2 hours ago
        .. or skipping reading the article if you look at it during some short break
    • jihadjihad 2 hours ago
      The purest phở is the one that exists only in your imagination.